Triple Berry + Hydro

PhatNuggz

Active Member
I would be looking at temperatures of your water. I use GH 3 part nutrients with hydroguard and keep the water temperature between 65 to 68 degrees and have never had RR. Always clean everything with bleach or 39% hydrogen peroxide. I believe heisenbean recommends 20 ml per gallon of water and run for several hours I run a alita linear air pump and pound it with air.
I rotate jugs of blue ice 3-4xs a day
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
I soaked Rapid Rooters and dropped all 7 seeds.

For about a week I have been using a dunk jar rotating with Emerald Harvest Root Wizard and Dutch Master Zone, or H2O2, leaving plants in each for ~ 20 minutes. One thing I noted immediately is the amount of dead root coming off in the dunk jar, so I have been straining it out and reusing it between each of the plants. (I then started rinsing the roots under the faucet water to help remove dead root rot and dead roots). Turns out this is a good idea as these dead roots would be decaying in the rez upsetting the good things I've been doing. I am seeing some new roots

Finally got around to reading BigTokes Sticky. It is loaded with excellent 411, although it is ~ 13 years old and we have products that weren't available then. Also he runs a lot of plants, so Bio Buckets work there, but Ill stick to starting < 6 plants in my DIY bubbler then moving to my DIY F & D, where I've had excellent results in the past.

I should be able to start reusing either EH Root Wizard (mine is likely past it's use by date), NPK Raw Microbes and/or Enzymes to establish/maintain root bennies

Here's an excerpt:

Consider that when the bad guys find a plant, they use nutrients that the plant already immobilized. How ya like them apples!!!
Growing in a Recirculating DWC Bio-Bucket System of Hydroponics, the pathogens do not function to hold significant nutrients, because the good-guy bacterium compete with disease-causers, and prevent diseases and pests from being able to find or infect roots. The beneficial bacterium immobilizes a great deal of nutrients in their biomass, so that N, P, K, etc. Predators, such as fusarlum, pythium, rhizoctonia, phytopthera, sclerotinla; etc. feeds on dead pieces of root mass, pests and disease-causing organisms well inhibits the plants uptake of mobile nutrients. If the beneficial bacterium is properly managed (given a place to live) then they well aid in mobility of nutrients in the solution such as nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) should remain in the root zone to benefit the crop and yield. The beneficial bacterium keeps your solutions free from disease-causing organisms, thus creating a better echo-water environment, making nutrients more readily available for the plant mainly in the root zone.

__________________
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
Update

Something amiss with my photo editing, had to use auto stuff which ain't all that

However, pics reveal that the plants have recovered, including LOL. I pollinated her a couple weeks ago, now seeing swelling calyxes, which means Ill have Tripleberry seeds to try again

Note that the BBCC x G13 in the lower left front leaves are turgid and beginning to reach up, a very healthy sign, also lower branches are growing. One flipped, likely due to the major stress I put her through. She's now outside cause whatever I get from her (not much) will still be good smoke

And 4/7 BBCC x G13 seeds have already broken out of the RRs

Note tent temp stays between 86-89*s

 

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PhatNuggz

Active Member
Update

4/7 are well out the RRs, prepping to put them in fresh nutes

Cleaned the tote, and the air stones. Fresh nutes made, chilling them now

Moved 2/3 remaining BBCC x G13 outside in coco. The only reason why I haven't YET moved the 3rd is when I was cleaning the roots 2 days ago the main taproot with 99% of the roots (none really viable) came off, leaving me with just a couple root threads. They are already developing lateral roots, but want to leave them in the veg bubbler until they develop more. BTW her main stalk is pretty strong and lower side branches are ~ 4" long with strong stems

LOL continues to hold her own
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
Update

Still stuck on 4/7. Same everything so who knows, though I keep trying to get them to pop

Although both LOL and the BBCC x G13 will never amount to much volume wise, their recovery proves what I was doing wrong has ben solved

Took a couple pics of one the plants moved outdoors. She is also doing well

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PhatNuggz

Active Member
Had to dump the fresh nutes. Must have gone too heavy with the microbes as the res was full of thick bubbles throughout the rez. This lifted small root mass out of the nutes. Used those nutes in tomato plants and one BBCC X outdoors in coco

The 4 babies looking good. The bigger plant is also doing well, fattening up. Once LOL is finished Im thinking to move the big BBCC x G13 to the separate rez so she (no evidence yet) can start getting bloom nutes
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
Update

I was going to order the new commercial Zone, but was told the original formula was better, so that's on its way, but, since anaerobic bacteria is not supposed to grow in an oxygen rich environment (proven in YT videos where commercial sized micro-bubblers have restored near dead bodies of water) I should not need it at all. See below

I can't locate when I pollinated LOL, but it's been roughly one month, calyxes are swelling and pistils mostly red. I moved her back into the veg bubbler and moved the BBCC x G13 into the bloom bubbler since she is getting fat and is overdue for bloom nutes. Still can't tell but all indications are it's a She.

I found out my O2 Grow 2020 was not plugged in fully. This allowed the led to come on (false sense of working) but the wall wart input plug was not in far enough to provide power to the emitters. I have no idea how long that has been an issue, but likely throughout this current grow. But wait, there's more...

and now the biggie:

Several growers (that I have ignored) have said you don't need bubblers if you drain back (F & D) which I am not using at this stage, BUT, since the O2G produces micro bubbles, running 3 air stones 24/7 is probably dissipating them. DOH

The O2G is supposed to run 30 minutes on and 4 hours off. I think I simply need to grow a pair and eliminate the air stones so the O2G can do its' thing. Unfortunately, Ive never been able to locate anyone using O2G, so Im a bit chicken to completely pull the plug on the air pump, but did remove 2/3 stones. I am waiting to hear back from O2G but will likely eliminate that one too

Stay tuned
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
Wish me luck

I decided to go all in with my O2G 2020: ZERO airstones

Here's a picture of the roots. LOL's roots (far right) not looking good, might be bennies, but then no new roots, so...

I thought to soak them in h2o2, but decided to leave them as is (but monitor) and see how they respond to micro-bubbles

The babies have nice lateral root hairs, but some are brown, again, could be bennies, or not



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PhatNuggz

Active Member
Just heard back from O2G. Seems my intuition was spot on. They revised their 30 min on and 4 hour off instructions as follows:

The O2Grow oxygenator separates the water molecule creating
Nano Bubbles of 100% pure oxygen. These Nano Bubbles are
easily absorbed back into the water effectively raising the level
of dissolved oxygen, therefore if you run a “Bubbler” with the
O2Grow emitter you will experience no increase in dissolved
oxygen. The larger bubbles introduced by the bubbler simply rise
to the top and can remove the increased dissolved oxygen that
you have just created. However, if you are using Bubblers to help
mix your nutrients or to keep debris off of the roots, then we
recommend running your O2Grow emitters for 1 hour on and 1 hour
off during your plants “light cycle.” Now run your Bubblers during the “dark cycle” to mix nutrient and splash the roots. The “light cycle” is when the plants are absorbing the nutrient and storing energy
 

Hydro

PICK YOUR OWN
That clear, jelly type substance along with the browning on your roots is Pythium (root rot). You need to get it in check quick as it will spread to everything in that res. I'd suggest stopping with all the "miracle solvents" and just run a sterile res...at least until it is in check and you figure out why you are getting it in the first place (high water temps/introduction from other plants in res/etc). To combat it, Id suggest using 3% H2o2 from the drugstore at 30ml per gallon of water. Let the plants stay in that for 12 hrs. Your water will look bubbly and frothy from the reaction of the H2o2 killing off the bacteria. Change out the res and rinse the roots real well, then refill res with 3% H2o2 added at 15 ml per gallon of water, let that go another 24 hrs, rinse off the roots real good,then change everything out again but with your normal feed and 10-15 ml of H2o2 per gallon of water there after every 3 days. Your root rot issues should be history and your roots will be a clean white color in appearance.
 

PhatNuggz

Active Member
yes sir. We're on the same page with no more additives

As per your suggestion, I just added 90ml pf h2O2 to the babies + LOL

Added 15 ml to the maturing BBCC x G 13 in a separate container

Thought better of my decision and did wash LOL roots off and soak in h2O2 yesterday

Will dump nutes tomorrow anf follow your suggestion to a T

Thanks
(y)
 
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