TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
<----- I noticed!!! Hahaha me likey
QB132 V2 Quantum Boards × 1 V2 3000K
- Thread starter TerpyTyrone
- Start date
gwheels
Hobby Farmer
The limitation on full power is heat. If your space can handle the warmth the efficiency is less important (imo)
But the tent....wow I had no idea of the heat containment. The efficiency in a tent is paramount. Better to run wall to wall strips or boards at 50% than to crank them and hit 90+ degrees because it screws the plants up and causes all of these weird problems you chase that are....HEAT related. I had no idea until my flower room showed me.
Cubic volume of air is weird like cubic space of reservoirs
The more you have the less it is screwed up by changes.
The smaller it is the more work it is
What I know is based on observation and research...but its got to be right
Its empirical science ! tested by me.
But the tent....wow I had no idea of the heat containment. The efficiency in a tent is paramount. Better to run wall to wall strips or boards at 50% than to crank them and hit 90+ degrees because it screws the plants up and causes all of these weird problems you chase that are....HEAT related. I had no idea until my flower room showed me.
Cubic volume of air is weird like cubic space of reservoirs
The more you have the less it is screwed up by changes.
The smaller it is the more work it is
What I know is based on observation and research...but its got to be right
Its empirical science ! tested by me.
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
Thank you, Chief! I appreciate the graphical breakdown and your explanation of it all.
I've got these boards arriving today and was eager to go ahead and frame them up and get them in this tent. The lower power doesn't bother me too much right now, as it will be used only for seed starts and early veg, at the moment. I may go back and get the 240-2100, but for now this will be just fine.
Thanks again to all who chimed in!
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
Well shit, lol. That makes sense, though. Thank you Jesse.
Looks like I will be ordering that other driver after all.
Does the 240H-C2100 seem like the best option for just the 4 boards? I've got 2 qb324s here not being used, but pretty sure I can't mix them and wire those 6 together, right?
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
Yeah, I don't know what's up with them not releasing a data sheet for that board. I could be mistaken, but I think that the qb324 is closer to the qb304, than the qb288. With vdc being close to 110v per board at 1400ma, vs 48v on the 288s.
If so, that would bring the total vdc of the 6 boards up to, or just over 300, which is the max rating for the molex connectors. Does this sound like cause for concern? What if I just ran one of the 324s along with the qb120s, would that be a better option? I don't need a ton of light or power in my situation. It's going in a 3x3 tent, just for seed starts, clones, early veg, etc.
TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
How old is your qb324?
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
I bought them in Sept of 2018.
ChiefRunningPhist
Drunk on Knowledge
Dammit! Lol good catch
I'm pretty sure you can run under V, but not sure how much or which models or anything. I'm running an hbg 160p-60a at 30V currently even though its rated at 36V - 60V, but idk for certain so I'm not recommending to others just yet Haha
ChiefRunningPhist
Drunk on Knowledge
This pic says 18P18S and has LM301B it looks like..
1400mA ÷ 18 ~ 78mA each string.
78mA corresponds to ~2.75V for LM301B.
18 × 2.75V = 49.5V
Looks like @Jesselikes2Grow was spot on with a estimation of 70W, and also if I didn't make any more mistakes haha
EDIT:
@TerpyTyrone were you thinking before a certain year they were made with lm561C? Or wired in higher V config? I thought I remebered that too
1400mA ÷ 18 ~ 78mA each string.
78mA corresponds to ~2.75V for LM301B.
18 × 2.75V = 49.5V
Looks like @Jesselikes2Grow was spot on with a estimation of 70W, and also if I didn't make any more mistakes haha
EDIT:
@TerpyTyrone were you thinking before a certain year they were made with lm561C? Or wired in higher V config? I thought I remebered that too
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TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
Exactly. They could be lm561 diodes,
They have a spec sheet for the 304. Its under quantum quotes, 288/304 not 324. Jw how old it was. I'm new to all thus. But clearly interested!!
TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
When ya do series the voltage is additive. The molex connectors are 300 v if im not mistaken. Putting too many in series could be bad
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
I don't believe these are the Samsung diodes, but rather Nichia (NT2L757GTR-V1 80/90 mix). From what I can find. If that makes any difference.
Are you saying now that using one qb324 board would draw only 70-80w at 1400ma, not 150w?
Just trying to be clear before I take the time to assemble a frame and wire them up. Thanks for all the input guys.
Hotwired
~
I come here a virgin and willing to let someone be my first. Need someone with huge cock, and knowledge of QB's. I believe I am going to purchase my first ever QB and have an idea what I would like for my veg room. Something like this would be nice:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
I like the Slate 2 triple cause I can spread my boards out more for my 4 x 4 tent. Two slates, four boards and two drivers should do the trick.
I will want to have a dimmer on it. Will need someone to hold my hand and gently whisper sweet messages in my ear on what to buy and how to connect. Also, how will I know how many watts it's using?
Eagerly awaiting hot young knowledgeable stud with answers
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
I like the Slate 2 triple cause I can spread my boards out more for my 4 x 4 tent. Two slates, four boards and two drivers should do the trick.
I will want to have a dimmer on it. Will need someone to hold my hand and gently whisper sweet messages in my ear on what to buy and how to connect. Also, how will I know how many watts it's using?
Eagerly awaiting hot young knowledgeable stud with answers
TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
Hahahahaha lmfao!!I come here a virgin and willing to let someone be my first. Need someone with huge cock, and knowledge of QB's. I believe I am going to purchase my first ever QB and have an idea what I would like for my veg room. Something like this would be nice:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
I like the Slate 2 triple cause I can spread my boards out more for my 4 x 4 tent. Two slates, four boards and two drivers should do the trick.
I will want to have a dimmer on it. Will need someone to hold my hand and gently whisper sweet messages in my ear on what to buy and how to connect. Also, how will I know how many watts it's using?
Eagerly awaiting hot young knowledgeable stud with answers
Dont do it!!! Jk
I would personally just buy each item seperate and put em together yourself. Save the money!! Unless having 3 different packages come is a big deal.
The wire whip and ratchet straps and stuff to hang it is cheaper on Amazon.
The meanwell driver can be had from arrow in 2 days tops.
The hlg shit is always here pronto and discreet.
I would go with the v2 r spec that comes in 3500k as an all around or do 2 spectrums like moi.
It depends if yourdoing veg and flower using the same lights. But more than plenty with 2 320 drivers pushing em
TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
195 for the boards and heatsink
horticulturelightinggroup.com
Maybe it willend upbeing the same when ya add in the 100$ driver. Either way its a he'll of a setup
QB648 Diablo & Slate 2 Double
QB648 Diablo LED Module with Slate 2 Double Heatsink
horticulturelightinggroup.com
badmofo529
Insanely Active Member
I might be wrong bit I think the first version of the 324 was nichias 80/90 cri blended and a high fv. The new version is lm301b's and a lower fv
TerpyTyrone
LED Recruiter
Starting to reap the benefits of my LED setup. My first with the Qb132s. I'm pretty pleased
Its quite the investment up front but imo worth every $$$
Ghost OG bastid/ GG4 - HB Genetics
Spondylo Grow
Really Active Member
Very cool, thanks Jesse. I appreciate you taking the time to break it down and explain it to me. Looks like I'll go this route, and use the 4 qb120s with one qb324 added. I'll update with a pic after I have it put together and running. Thanks again, everyone.
ChiefRunningPhist
Drunk on Knowledge
It depends on how they are wired. If they are 18S18P then it'll be ~51V board but if they are wired 36S9P then you'll need twice the voltage, so it'd be ~102V board with 36S9P. Voltages will increase as you brighten, decrease as you dim, so it'll be somewhere in there depending. Also trace resistance and wire resistance ect adds to the total voltage needed so it'll be a bit higher generally.
The LM301B and Nichia 757 v3 are about identical in how they react to current, below is an overlay of a 757 v3 (longer) and a LM301b (shorter), the 757 v3 looks like it needs a bit more voltage to flow the same current but pretty close and the overlay isn't exact..
So look on the board for a 18P18S or 36S9P marking, most boards have a basic SP label.
Mid power chips will typically only be rated for 3.0V. So you can use 3.0V as a generic number when guesstimating regardless of chip brand. Find the number in the SP label referring to the number of chips in series and multiply that S number by 3.0V to get what voltage you'll need. X amount of chips in series multiplied by 3.0V per chip.
If the board is wired 36S9P then current gets divided 9 ways. So 1400 ÷ 9 = 155mA. 155mA per row means 155mA per chip because the 36 chips in the row are wired in series which means that current stays the same throughout each chip along the 36 chip series pathway. At 155mA each chip will correspond to about 2.9V (look at graph), so the board would need, 104.4V (36 chips × 2.9V). Watts equal V × A, so 1.4A total × 104.4V = 146.6W. ... ...Now that's an exact number but calculated from a bunch of estimated or extrapolated figures from graphs etc, so real world will be close but will always wiggle a bit from calculated properties.
If the board was 18P18S, then 1400mA divided by 18 rows equals 78mA per 18 chip string. Looking at where V correlates at 78mA for a 757 v3 we notice about 2.75V per chip is needed to flow 78mA, so the total board V is 49.5V. Watts = V × A, so 49.5V × 1.4A = 69.3W
If you can't find a SP label then you could plug the 324 into the 240h 1400 by itself, and measure the voltage with a multimeter. Or you could just try to add them all on like they were 50V boards and if it doesn't fire then they are 110V boards. If they fire it means 50V boards and 70 w per board, if they don't fire it means they are 110V and 1 will draw 150W at 1400mA.
EDIT:
Oops you said 757 v1 not v3, which will probably require a tad more voltage per chip over the v3, but still be pretty same ballpark, at 18 chips or 36 chips and only a .05V difference in forward voltage, you'll be within a volt or 2 of each other
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ChiefRunningPhist
Drunk on Knowledge
BSD here, I'll take your V card lolI come here a virgin and willing to let someone be my first. Need someone with huge cock, and knowledge of QB's. I believe I am going to purchase my first ever QB and have an idea what I would like for my veg room. Something like this would be nice:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
I like the Slate 2 triple cause I can spread my boards out more for my 4 x 4 tent. Two slates, four boards and two drivers should do the trick.
I will want to have a dimmer on it. Will need someone to hold my hand and gently whisper sweet messages in my ear on what to buy and how to connect. Also, how will I know how many watts it's using?
Eagerly awaiting hot young knowledgeable stud with answers
With 4 boards in a 4x4 you're going to want active cooling. I run 142W per board but have to use (4) 7cm axial fans to keep them under 115f.
I'd recommend (2) 320h drivers or 1 600h driver. If you go with a 600h you'll need QB's with forward voltages 54V or less.
Get QBs with added red and you won't have to worry about supplement strips.
The bigger the QB number the better imo. The thing you're trying to maximize is chip count. The more chips you have the cooler per watt you'll run.