Can you cure bud after you get it

Old ST1R

Grow Yer Own Stone
So have you ever jarred your 75% dried weed without the humidity pack but with a humidity meter? That would be good information to have. And I think the RH of that weed would still be around the 70% mark.

70% RH is where I like to jar my buds. I burp them 5 minutes twice a day until they get down to 65, then it’s 5 minutes once a day until they get down to 60 % RH, at which point I only burp them to smell them or to take some for the smaller “in use” jars.
How I get my buds down to 70% is another story......
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
How I get my buds down to 70% is another story......
Doing the crop rotation thing I am chopping something every few weeks, so I use the weighing part to get them closer to 65%. I have them in that cedar wardrobe, and the temp and rH are pretty damn close anyway. rH is in the mid 50's - which I think promotes that drying.

I added the vacuum part after I jar it just because I can - but I think it produces better smoke. It will let that inner moisture get out a little quicker, but it stays in the jar with the parts that are more dry - so I think it evens out. Then when I burp it I roll it out to weigh it (it gets fresh air, loses any ambient moisture) then the weight loss determines if I vacuum it again. If it is in the half gram range (about 2oz in a jar, so that's not a lot) I re-vacuum. if it loses more than a gram I let it air out a little longer before re-jarring it.
 

Old ST1R

Grow Yer Own Stone
Doing the crop rotation thing I am chopping something every few weeks, so I use the weighing part to get them closer to 65%. I have them in that cedar wardrobe, and the temp and rH are pretty damn close anyway. rH is in the mid 50's - which I think promotes that drying.

I added the vacuum part after I jar it just because I can - but I think it produces better smoke. It will let that inner moisture get out a little quicker, but it stays in the jar with the parts that are more dry - so I think it evens out. Then when I burp it I roll it out to weigh it (it gets fresh air, loses any ambient moisture) then the weight loss determines if I vacuum it again. If it is in the half gram range (about 2oz in a jar, so that's not a lot) I re-vacuum. if it loses more than a gram I let it air out a little longer before re-jarring it.
So you’ve never done a RH test on the 75% dry buds?
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
So you’ve never done a RH test on the 75% dry buds?
Yes, and I don't trust those that much. They measure the air in the jar, which has a lot of variables based on what and how much you jarred. The density of the buds is a big one. I think they will lose enough moisture weight to equalize the jar, then stop, but the dense buds have more to let go.

I did do a check on an empty jar with the rH packs and it kept it spot on. I trust that, and then the vacuuming opens up those dense buds to let it all dry a little more evenly.

Just my unscientific "works for me" system. The weight part is scientific I guess LOL
 

Choco8

Insanely Active Member
All it takes is losing a couple of jars of 4 months work to mold to make you spend as much time on curing as you do on growing.
I hear that. Nothing sucks like digging out a treasured jar or bag to find it ruined by mold. Worst feeling ever.

I've been using Grove bags for about a year now and really like them for both curing and long term storage ( but I totally get and respect the Jar Culture's Ways and Traditions :cool: ). The 1/4 lb. and 1 lb. bags are great, and can be heat sealed several times. I just bagged up a bunch today after using a lower temperature method I had read about .10 days - 62 degrees for the whole dry:

 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Gotta have a hard case for the family jewels!
The few C-vaults I was tricked into buying are really good - but not as good as the price they ask compared to a glass jar :cool:

I have shifted gradually over to the amber mason jars for the extra light protection besides just keeping it in the cupboard
 

treefarmercharlie

🍆
Admin
I don’t know if I’ll be able to find it, but there was a discussion a year or so ago (I think on Reddit in /r/microwgrowery) about what the actual moisture level of the bud should be before curing. Someone on that thread was saying that you can actually use one of those moisture meters you use on wood studs to test them and that you should jar them up when the buds average around 10%.
 

treefarmercharlie

🍆
Admin
Just found this from a quick search…this is a wood moisture meter rebadged as a cannabis moisture meter. Notice the “%WME” on it? That stands for “Wood Moisture Equivalent”
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
You should try it and see what you get for readings. Some growers in the thread I saw swear by using them.
It has 2 probes like a taser. It measures electrical interference or whataver by the water content. It is measured between the two probes.
You would only be able to check the top -which will be moister than everything else in the jar. Inless they are just jamming it down in a jat - which seems accurate too...

What we have here is an industry opening in a growing industry. Inkbirds suck. There should be a better quantitative measurement of density vs moisture content, vs storage place rH (jar), and temp. Hell, throw in barometric pressure and whatever else might be pertinent. Make a better mousetrap specifically for bud.
 

treefarmercharlie

🍆
Admin
It has 2 probes like a taser. It measures electrical interference or whataver by the water content. It is measured between the two probes.
You would only be able to check the top -which will be moister than everything else in the jar. Inless they are just jamming it down in a jat - which seems accurate too...

What we have here is an industry opening in a growing industry. Inkbirds suck. There should be a better quantitative measurement of density vs moisture content, vs storage place rH (jar), and temp. Hell, throw in barometric pressure and whatever else might be pertinent. Make a better mousetrap specifically for bud.
Yeah, I know how they work, and you are right...you would only be able to test the larger colas and stems. As far as humidity control goes (Inkbird and other manufacturers) most of them use the same Texas Instruments sensors which, believe it or not, are also used in a lot of high end products. What makes one company better than others is how they program their system and manage dead bands. When they program their firmware to simply just turn on or off at a specific RH (or temp) it will constantly toggle on and off when it hits that sweet spot and that is bad for all the hardware involved. I programmed my system so it allows for the RH to swing up and down throughout the day. During veg the humidifier turns on at 52% or lower and turns off at 62%. If the RH gets above 65% the fan ramps off and clears it out.
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Yeah, I know how they work, and you are right...you would only be able to test the larger colas and stems. As far as humidity control goes (Inkbird and other manufacturers) most of them use the same Texas Instruments sensors which, believe it or not, are also used in a lot of high end products. What makes one company better than others is how they program their system and manage dead bands. When they program their firmware to simply just turn on or off at a specific RH (or temp) it will constantly toggle on and off when it hits that sweet spot and that is bad for all the hardware involved. I programmed my system so it allows for the RH to swing up and down throughout the day. During veg the humidifier turns on at 52% or lower and turns off at 62%. If the RH gets above 65% the fan ramps off and clears it out.
What I am geting at is there are other factors besides what a hygrometer can check, or the wet-wood contraption. It is an opening for someone with the skills (not me) to hit the market with a better product.

Curing bud at sea level in Florida and Arizona would be completely different - as it would shifting from Mile High Colorado to some upper elevations in the lower appalacians, or whatever mountains they have in arctic circle Canada.

There should be something that factors in all that - it's sensors and coding like you said - but everything is micro now so fitting it all in a matchbox would be no problem for someone with the knowhow.
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
I know that having a specific area dialed in for drying makes it a lot easier.

After thinking about the wardrobe I have set up, as long as the rH stays at 62 it's a big humidore. I could open all my jars of weed and set them in there and it would be fine. The more I think about it, that is what lets you hang it for 7-10 days, after which the jarring and what the rH is inside matters less and less.
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Here's my set-up.
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Granny's wardrobe I got cheap at a yard sale. AC Infinity plate fan for exhaust that's 3 speed, but only 20-40-60cfm.
AC Infinitiy Muffin fan that has a rheostat and blows up to 120cfm at full speed but can dial back to a gentle breeze.
I keep the fan on the floor when I use it, first day of hanging I'll have that moving air around and the exhaust on full. After that everything goes off and I monitor the environment. I'll have the fan or the exhaust on for a bit then turn them back off. Usually just check twice a day.
The only intake is an extra hole I drilled for cords come through and the fact that the doors are not hermetically sealed. and I have a dust-filter jammed in that hole.
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And the exhaust has a sheet metal box outside and a 4" outlet. If the room starts to smell I put the exhaust on :)
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