Passive condenser effeciency

[Jewels]

Is there any advantigous de-humidifacation happening here ?

I know hot air will rise coming out of the hood.
I know the air will fall as it cools.
I know condensation will form in the pipe outside, and (maybe) run out the trap.

In my mind, electric dehumidifiers are expensive to run for how much they do, granted, they are labouring against the natural gradient.
My flower room is sealed and I create excessive heat and moisture. If I vent into the (cold) room, I have condensation running down the outside walls of my tent.
Before I start poking holes in my garage ,,
I don't know where I dreamt this up, but it seems like it might be just crazy enough to work. Most of my schemes are just hokey replications of better commercial products that somebody already invented.

Did I make this s*** up?? ,,, or is there something to be gained here?
Will this passive circuit actually dry air with appreciable gains ?
I got endless, free ,cold air. Essentially that is what you are paying for with a peltier - No?

 

[BigBallzWillie]

I'll play
How fast would it condense in that cycle? Maybe not fast enough or completely enough? Condense..yes, how efficiently?

 

[Old ST1R]

In theory, it should work, depending on how long the section of hose is on the cold side of things.

What do you imagine happening at lights out? Without some kind of pre-heat compensation and assuming the system is still running during lights out, I’d be concerned about too much air that is too cold. But you’d really have to actually test it to find out.

 

[Jewels]

Ideally the moisture loss is greater than the heat loss ($) . This should function as closed loop, as very little air will be introduced.

Heat is cheaper than cooling. Even a "chiller" ,due to power consumption, is netting heat. ,,,put a fridge in the middle of the room with the door open - the room gets hotter.

What do you imagine happening at lights out?

When I put on my imagination hat, the process became even more similar to commercial.

I just dont have to pay for the green component.

1. I have air, on hand
2. Fans already in place
3. Free , on-hand
4. Already running, by necessity
5. Free ('ish) dry air

The space heater is effectively driving and post warming at night. When rising humidity is most prevalent.

I am not trolling here.
I don't recognize any dissimilarities.

 

[Turpman]

Try this on.
If you vent into long tubing like weeping tile pipe without the holes”cheepshit”. Coil it up and mount it up hi and horizontal so it will naturally drain. You could recycle that heat back to your garage (if you need it). Then vent outside or maybe in. Not sure how dry it will get. You will get freezing if you vent outside so be sure you have room for a stalagmite.
I just set up a air to air heat exchanger and it does exactly that. Exchanges the hot to cold and condensed as it does it.

 

[BigBallzWillie]

These work. Are they practical or efficient?

 

[Jewels]

These work.

No, they dont.

There is a ground fault, as the potatoes are touching.

It is not practical, because the leads are to short.

It is not efficient, because red potatoes are for incandescent, white potatoes are for LED.

I dont have the cash to buy a 2hp de-huey, and I dont have a Kw to run it.
I stated that cannot see the difference between my drawing and the commercial schematic.
I don't see any insight or humour in your reply.
You wear those pink pants every day ?

Or did 'ya put them on just for me ?

Sometimes I get really baked, and make fundamental errors that defy logic.
Am I missing something, or you taking me for a poes?

My idea (somehow) should work, last forever, ,has no moving parts and it takes up no space. Practically defined.

 

[BigBallzWillie]

I'd have to hold off on saying whether I thought you were a poes or not until I knew wtf a poes is.

I don't think it will work and besides your illustrations you've provided no proof that it will. The theory might be feasible but you'll use more power to make it work, then you'll gain.

Did you mean putz?

 

[BigBallzWillie]

 

[curious2garden]

Is there any advantigous de-humidifacation happening here ?
View attachment 31884
I know hot air will rise coming out of the hood.
I know the air will fall as it cools.
I know condensation will form in the pipe outside, and (maybe) run out the trap.

In my mind, electric dehumidifiers are expensive to run for how much they do, granted, they are labouring against the natural gradient.
My flower room is sealed and I create excessive heat and moisture. If I vent into the (cold) room, I have condensation running down the outside walls of my tent.
Before I start poking holes in my garage ,,
I don't know where I dreamt this up, but it seems like it might be just crazy enough to work. Most of my schemes are just hokey replications of better commercial products that somebody already invented.

Did I make this s*** up?? ,,, or is there something to be gained here?
Will this passive circuit actually dry air with appreciable gains ?
I got endless, free ,cold air. Essentially that is what you are paying for with a peltier - No?

How does the water get out of the pipe?
What is the conduction coefficient of your pipe?

 

[Jewels]

How does the water get out of the pipe?
What is the conduction coefficient of your pipe?

I was imagining something like this.

Do I have my drawing backwards?

I noticed in my tent a water bottle sitting on the concrete floor touching the wall of the tent. There were droplets of water running down onto the floor.
Remember, the outside walls of my tent are 5 C these days. Soon it will be colder.

If I attached a 5w incandescent to the circuit,
and ran the stack inside the tent, would I not receive precipitate ? ,,,like when cold eyeglasses fog up indoors ?

I was considering using light-gauged tin eavestroughing downspout, it has the lowest specific heat capacity of anything I can beg, borrow, or steal.

 

[Jewels]

That is what a window Shaker is doing,,, correct ??
It puts a frosty coil in my hot room, and water runs out the bottom ?