How to keep a clean garden - Pest Free - Organic IPM

J.James

Seed Slingin' Outlaw
Breeder
This is presented by Jeremy from BuildASoil



This video will give you a 15 minute rundown on important considerations for your Organic IPM routine. IPM stands for Integrated Pest Management and is a very important part of indoor growing.

Basic bullet points I cover in more detail in the video:

1. Don't take cuts. (Clones) When taken from another grower can bring unwanted pests and diseases.

2. Grow Environment has to be proper

3. Watering properly: https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/how-to-water-living-soil-over-water-vs-under-water

4. Spraying routine once per week with a rotation of favorite organic products.

5. Look for good ingredients and realize this is about being consistent and clean in your garden and not a magical product.


IPM NOTES PDF

EPA 25B Exempt Approved ACTIVE Ingredients

EPA 25B Exempt pesticides Approved INERT ingredients list
 
Last edited:

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
I am interested in the 'keep the soil moist' part, but then you're getting into daily watering. Might as well be in coco.

That said, I have had healthy plants for several grows now, and I rarely let them completely dry. If they hit three days and don't need water, something is going on. and me letting them continue to sit as is in damp soil doesn't make sense.

Another point on watering is that if you are adding water to soak the soil, you can't overwater - as long as you have good drainage.

So I put the two of those together, and if at day three they are still on the heavy side, I water, but I try to figure out why they weren't drinking. When were they fed last? Do they need more, or is there an issue with what I gave them last? What stage are they in, and is that changing their drinking habits?

And a big one for me is when did I re-pot last? I try not to over-water when I re-pot, but sometimes it happens. Going from a 1g to a 5g final pot, if you over-water, you will have 'mud' that the roots just haven't reached yet - but the place where the roots are is sufficiently dry.

So unless I know they need food, I water with 'base' RO water - cal-mag'd and pH'd, and get some run-off to check.
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
I'm stoned - My point was that knowing that "let it dry" is more un-proven bro-science (no matter how reliable it usually is) than actual science takes a little of the stress out of trying to gently fix a possible problem before it goes sideways.
 

Now1more

Super Active Member
Mist plants with peroxide. Mist a second time with EM-1. I always sprinkle DE. Don't know if it works, but it's a preventative. First couple of years I never had one single pest issue. The last couple of years I'm fighting. I think bringing in the outdoor harvest to dry inside caused issues. Remember, fly paper is your friend.
 

Now1more

Super Active Member
As far as clones go. I've brought in clones from friends and what we do is mist the plants with a soapy solution and dunk upside down into a 5 gallon bucket. This works like a charm! Then take them out of the solo cup or 4"planter, or whatever they came from and dunk the roots, cleaning them effectively. We then actually use our cloner to mist the roots for a day before we plant into 1 gallon containers. The cloner has ph'd water at 6.3 with alone vera juice and a drop or two of Mammoth P.
 

Highland Rogue

Really Active Member
I think bringing in the outdoor harvest to dry inside caused issues.
That will do it.

I have a rule, if I've tended an outside garden, vegetable, flower or weed, mowed the lawn, fed the chickens etc. I don't go into the inside garden, until I've showered and changed clothes.

The good side of my rule = far fewer pests indoors

The bad side = I end up doing more laundry.

You see our washer and dryer are in the grow room. I've sectioned off most of what was a large bedroom with a washer and dryer in it (previous owners did that. lol) for a vegging zone and a flowering zone. Wife now claims she doesn't want to bring pests in....so I end up doing much of the laundry. Clever woman.
 

gwheels

Hobby Farmer
Hypiaspis mites are the shit !

And IPM sprays with jadam and essential oils (and potasium silicate and aloe). Sometimes gnats come in the soil but they cant last long with mites feasting.

I load up my totes with the mites a week before i use the soil.
 

619KGB

PICK YOUR OWN
Couple things IPM ralated found out from my local nursery regarding earthworm castings and chitins. Crustacean meal is an excellent source as well and contains phosphorus so even better through flower.

Another huge issue I deal with is caterpillars and locusts. Every type imaginable. So BT is required and have used Capt Jack's with great results. I soak the buds about 2-3 hrs before dark (less risk of burn) every 7-10 days depending on the frequency of eggs appearing. Later in the season I actually had fans blowing on them to dry them out especially if you have gelato type structures.

You'll notice when you get the upper hand and things will taper off but stay vigilant.

Be aware of what is around your plants as those areas tend to harbor issues that spill over to your ganja. For that I use Sevin but be careful because it can act as friendly fire.

Moths have a pattern of dropping eggs in a way where they curl their abdomen and placing their eggs near the underside of the leaves near the tips. Closer to harvest you see them under your scope when checking tricomes. So check frequently.

Other notable mention is silica. Supposedly the cell walls become stronger and not as appealing to the critters in addition to helping heat stress.

Gnats live in the first 2" layer of soil so drainage is very important. You can also knock the larvae out with mosquito dunks (BT) in your watering otherwise medical grade peroxide in general is important to keep around in addition to keeping things sterile.

20210303_123701.jpg

"An exciting development in whitefly control has come to light over the past several years. Plants that are well mulched with worm castings repel a variety of pests, especially whiteflies. Apparently the worm castings raise the level of the chitinase enzyme in the plants, which whiteflies find distasteful and avoid.

I recommend spreading a 1-inch layer of worm castings around infected plants and periodically applying more, especially through the summer months. It takes a little time for worm castings to move up into the foliage and for the enzyme to form. Small plants are usually free of whiteflies in three or four weeks, but larger plants may take a while longer."

How does it work?

Worms feed on bacteria and fungus. One of these bacteria is found in the worm casting eat chitin. Most insects, including the white fly, exoskeleton is made from chitin. When black worm castings are applied to the soil, the plants absorb the nutrients from the worm castings, including Chitinase an enzyme that will dissolve chitin. When a whitefly tries to eat a plant fortified with black worm castings, they sense the bacteria that feeds on them and fly away.





 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
I have a fat tent-full of 9 plants that I messed up and re-vegged. Point being they have been in flower for quite a bit now.

I tried using nothing but the MocrobeLift BMC at 1.5ml per 4 gallons of water. I have been using this religiously for a while now, but this is the first grow I have done nothing else. No Mosquito bits, neem (ditching that shit) Spinosad, etc. Nothing but sticky traps.

And they have been staying clean. I have seen the occasional gnat when I water, so they are not eradicated - but they are definitely controlled.
 
Top