Things you wish you knew when you started...

Dirtbag

Really Active Member
Sitting back thinking of some of the dumb things I used to think about plants, and some of the confusion I had getting started in growing almost 25 years ago. Figured I'd start a thread where some of us experienced growers could shed some truths we've learned over the years.

I've got tons but I'll just share a couple things to get the ball rolling..

1, The less you need to manipulate ph the better. You never want to chase it up and down, and are much better off using water with enough alkalinity to balance the acidity of the nutrients from the start.

2, Never tank mix calcium products with high phosphorus products. If possible always apply calcium supplements on their own.

3, ec vs ppm. 1ec = 500 ppm to most users in north america. Some places in Europe seem to prefer the .7 scale where 1ec=700ppm and I've seen some posts where people have lush plants feeding 1100-1200ppm, and a new grower could be mistaken and feed their plants 1100ppm on the .5 scale and burn the crap out of them.
On average a full strength feed for a mature plant is 1.5 ec which is 750ppm on the .5 scale, and 1050 on the .7 scale

4, If using soiless or coco, always test your runoff and dont let it get too high. I like to keep it within 0.3ec max. And I always want it coming out just slightly higher than it's going in. This is important to do at least until you are experienced enough to know by looking at the plants what they need.
 

Dirtbag

Really Active Member
Switching to high phosphorus low nitrogen bloom nutrients in flower is a bad idea for people growing in soiless systems that dont have a clay content. Better off using a low P ratio nutrient all the way through as a base and using a pk booster only in the later stages of flower. I dont start dropping my N number much until week 6 or 7 of flower when I scale back my base nutrient and use a bit more PK, but even then I prefer using a booster with higher K than P such as GP massive at 1-2-3 or even botanicare soil bloom which is 1-4-5.

High P in soiless doesnt bind to anything like it does to clay in true soil and the plant doesnt actually need much, so it builds up, and eventually starts locking things out like calcium. And plants need nitrogen for the first 2/3 of flower at pretty much the same rate it got in veg. Any new grower who has switched to high P low N bloom nutrients and noticed yellowing leaves with small brown spots 3 weeks later has experienced this and probably not known what's going on and blamed it on lack of cal mag or too much cal mag.
 

Drumsnjays

Member
Love this thread man! Stoked to just get perspective. This is the most unique community I’ve ever been a part of. The OGs that are willing to share their knowledge keep guys like me motivated to continue. I see so many successful first grows on a few forums and no doubt it’s due to insight from pros. Thanks again.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
I always rinse my ph meter after use. I use ro water. It seems to keep my calibration longer.
The nutes turn to salt when dried and it will throw a ph meter way off.

When using coco, never ever let it get completely dry. I use a ffof/perlite/soil and it can go a full day between waterings in full flower, 2 days in veg. It likes a bit of dry time while lights off it seems ime.
 

Gweedo

PICK YOUR OWN
Sticking with the KISS method jacks and megacrop have to get an honorable mention, too easy as a new grower to get sucked into big $$$ nutrients with too many bottles and additives. For a beginner you cant go wrong with either of those nutrients.
 
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