I'm god damn moron

[Diskokobaja]

My tap ph is 8.6 after sitting in air stoned bucked, pots are 12 or 15l, I watered them with max of 0.5l of water, every few days..
Last three times I lower ph to 7, and 6.5.according to liquid ph tester.And water them little. mOre cca 1l of water per plant..
IS THIS CAL MAG or something third?
I only gave them( before) alg a mic and some root stimulants..
soil is klassman dellman potground h70

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

Soil PH will be different than water PH. Try testing your "run off" and see what that PH is.
Make sure your PH meter is calibrated. If you have some vinegar, it is 4.0 PH

 

[Heisen]

Adding liquid ph adjusters to soil don't do jack shit but ruin your plants. That shit just burns and ruins the roots. The only way to ammend soil is to use lime and it will only raise it and it takes time.
Most bagged soil already has a proper ph. People always wanna overdo and overthink shit. You don't see farmers out there ph adjusting the water they are feeding there plants. The soil is already buffered to whatever the true ph is.

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

Adding liquid ph adjusters to soil don't do jack shit but ruin your plants. That shit just burns and ruins the roots. The only way to ammend soil is to use lime and it will only raise it and it takes time.
Most bagged soil already has a proper ph. People always wanna overdo and overthink shit. You don't see farmers out there ph adjusting the water they are feeding there plants. The soil is already buffered to whatever the true ph is.

Microbes can lower your PH and keep it regulated to a certain point. I might be wrong. H? What do you think?

 

[Heisen]

Microbes can lower your PH and keep it regulated to a certain point. I might be wrong. H? What do you think?

Yes they can help for sure. Any organic material will help neutralize the soil .

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

Yes they can help for sure. Any organic material will help neutralize the soil .

Plus the breaking down of organics, will add CO2 to the atmosphere. I keep about 800ppms of CO2 most of the time.

 

[Heisen]

Everytime I see someone adding hydro ph adjusters to soil i cringe. Water has no buffer same as coco or any other artificial medium. Soil is composted organic matter. The soil is already good to go. Add some perlite for drainage and feed them bitches.

 

[Diskokobaja]

I was thinking this.. I wasnt having any problems..but I gave them non lowered ph tap water in smaller amount.
Could my plants adopt to my tap water? and soil buffer it self?
So when I started checking and setting my ph up, plants arent use to that low ph??
Just a theory? and biobizz ph down should be organics..

Should I just go with non lowered ph ?

 

[Deleted member 60]

Soil is definitely a buffer...to a point. If your water is 8.6 you are probably seeing things go AOK for awhile....then the problems creep in. It's like it is cumulative....and takes time to show something is wrong. Been there, experienced that. My well water here is as high as yours...if not higher.

Being in the zone from the get go is best....but I have adjusted pH with chems...successfully......it just takes time....and you need to go slowly or start from the get go. Dropping from 8.6 to 7 or less in one fell swoop is rough on things. All of the nutes that didn't/weren't able to be absorbed due to the alkalinity/high pH go into suspension and become available immediately and can whack yer plant but good. This may be what you are seeing with the browning leaves/etc. Alot of guys see lockout and toss more nutes/cal-mag/etc into the mix...making things worse. (IMO)

Not sure about Biobizz pH adjuster being organic. Most are chems.

I HATE chasing pH. That's one reason I quit growing hydro. It will drive you nuts. I would look at trying to find oyster shell to help balance things out or add some peat into my mix to counteract the higher pH in the water. Something will work....you just have to get the parameters right. I know you may have plant count challenges/be in a place where this isn't legal....but if I could...I would think about making up a few different mixes with different adjustments made to the medium in each container and labeling the plants respectively.....and then see what happens. Good luck

 

[Diskokobaja]

I'm not sure I understand last part of your post. Should i slowly bring down ph and use peat moss and oister shell or... These are pics from today..

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

I was thinking this.. I wasnt having any problems..but I gave them non lowered ph tap water in smaller amount.
Could my plants adopt to my tap water? and soil buffer it self?
So when I started checking and setting my ph up, plants arent use to that low ph??
Just a theory? and biobizz ph down should be organics..

Should I just go with non lowered ph ?

To me, looks like all of the rest are gonna be ok. Just the one in the middle took the "brunt" of the problem. All of them sisters?
Do you "rotate" the plants front to the back and vise versa? Or did you just bring the worst to the front?
How much water have you put on them. I don't think you need to feed them just yet. I'd say on the lines of a good "flush". To clean up whatever the hell has happened to that one plant in particular.
Let's see what other members have to say, maybe we can figure this out for the best outcome for that one plant. It is wanting to grow. lol

 

[Diskokobaja]

what do you think about this ???

Hi all, this is a response from my organic tea manufacturer after I had some minor issues with my early flower and noticed the PH in my feed was reaching as low as 5ph (down from 7-7.5 before adding their organic tea)

"This pH range is very normal, BioCANNA nutrients do contain lots of fruit acids, depending on water source sometimes it will get even lower.

In organics, pH is almost irrelevant, as the nutrients are not provided in ionic form (directly plant available). By definition organic growing relies on micro organism to breakdown/convert the fertilizer into plant available nutrients (mineralization). Whether the pH of the solution is 4.0 or that it is 8.0

As well, also by definition the growing medium sets the working pH, not the nutrients. The pH buffer of soils is always much stronger than that of the nutrients being applied. Assuming your soil is of good quality, its pH is set to be between 5.2 and 6.5 no matter what pH your water is, within minutes after watering, the liquid held will be that of the growing medium.

Many growers bend their minds around achieving some pH perfection, but it pretty much is a placebo effect for anyone growing outside of a pure hydroponic system in a very inert growing medium.

The main thing to look at is that BioCANNA nutrients are designed to work with our BioTerraPro growing medium which contains some level of fertilization but also a very good supply of liming material. Which does set the pH where it needs to be as well as supply calcium and magnesium. Foxfarm has a very good reputation, but unfortunately I have no data on the content.

Pistil burn is more often caused by excess wind, dry air and radiant heat (sometimes by accidental severe under watering, like reaching wilting point). Very unlikely that this would be from too much/too little nutrients or bad pH."

Take from that what you will, but they seem a decent company. Awesome product.

 

[Heisen]

what do you think about this ???

Hi all, this is a response from my organic tea manufacturer after I had some minor issues with my early flower and noticed the PH in my feed was reaching as low as 5ph (down from 7-7.5 before adding their organic tea)

"This pH range is very normal, BioCANNA nutrients do contain lots of fruit acids, depending on water source sometimes it will get even lower.

In organics, pH is almost irrelevant, as the nutrients are not provided in ionic form (directly plant available). By definition organic growing relies on micro organism to breakdown/convert the fertilizer into plant available nutrients (mineralization). Whether the pH of the solution is 4.0 or that it is 8.0

As well, also by definition the growing medium sets the working pH, not the nutrients. The pH buffer of soils is always much stronger than that of the nutrients being applied. Assuming your soil is of good quality, its pH is set to be between 5.2 and 6.5 no matter what pH your water is, within minutes after watering, the liquid held will be that of the growing medium.

Many growers bend their minds around achieving some pH perfection, but it pretty much is a placebo effect for anyone growing outside of a pure hydroponic system in a very inert growing medium.

The main thing to look at is that BioCANNA nutrients are designed to work with our BioTerraPro growing medium which contains some level of fertilization but also a very good supply of liming material. Which does set the pH where it needs to be as well as supply calcium and magnesium. Foxfarm has a very good reputation, but unfortunately I have no data on the content.

Pistil burn is more often caused by excess wind, dry air and radiant heat (sometimes by accidental severe under watering, like reaching wilting point). Very unlikely that this would be from too much/too little nutrients or bad pH."

Take from that what you will, but they seem a decent company. Awesome product.

Basically what I said in soil ph adjusters fuck your plants up. If anyone had good luck with it there soil was already right and they probably could have done better if they put the bottles down.

 

[Meatman]

Basically what I said in soil ph adjusters fuck your plants up. If anyone had good luck with it there soil was already right and they probably could have done better if they put the bottles down.

I wonder if that’s my issue I seam to always have an issue my water ph before I add my nutes is 7.2 to 7.8 than when I add my nutes it’s usually 6.1 and I use ph up for that than when it’s that 7.2 to 7.8 for plain watering I ph it to 6.5 or so maybe I should just lose the ph meter and see what happens

 

[Nyaga]

what do you think about this ???

Hi all, this is a response from my organic tea manufacturer after I had some minor issues with my early flower and noticed the PH in my feed was reaching as low as 5ph (down from 7-7.5 before adding their organic tea)

"This pH range is very normal, BioCANNA nutrients do contain lots of fruit acids, depending on water source sometimes it will get even lower.

In organics, pH is almost irrelevant, as the nutrients are not provided in ionic form (directly plant available). By definition organic growing relies on micro organism to breakdown/convert the fertilizer into plant available nutrients (mineralization). Whether the pH of the solution is 4.0 or that it is 8.0

As well, also by definition the growing medium sets the working pH, not the nutrients. The pH buffer of soils is always much stronger than that of the nutrients being applied. Assuming your soil is of good quality, its pH is set to be between 5.2 and 6.5 no matter what pH your water is, within minutes after watering, the liquid held will be that of the growing medium.

Many growers bend their minds around achieving some pH perfection, but it pretty much is a placebo effect for anyone growing outside of a pure hydroponic system in a very inert growing medium.

The main thing to look at is that BioCANNA nutrients are designed to work with our BioTerraPro growing medium which contains some level of fertilization but also a very good supply of liming material. Which does set the pH where it needs to be as well as supply calcium and magnesium. Foxfarm has a very good reputation, but unfortunately I have no data on the content.

Pistil burn is more often caused by excess wind, dry air and radiant heat (sometimes by accidental severe under watering, like reaching wilting point). Very unlikely that this would be from too much/too little nutrients or bad pH."

Take from that what you will, but they seem a decent company. Awesome product.

They are still selling you their product range at the end of the day.

Here is the best solution for your buffer issue. Get yourself Humic and Fulvic acids just add a few drops of this to your water and water it into your soil, no need to drench till runoff. Do this once a week for 2 weeks after that as needed. Thank me later.

In soil we don't give a fuck about checking for ph unless there is an indication that the soil is unhealthy, but ph checking would still be one of the last things on my list to check if needed. if you need a soil buffer consider working into your soil 4 crushed eggshells per plant. Thats more than enough buffer and calcium etc. Microwave eggshells from breakfast for 3 minutes let it cool and do it again for 3 minutes let it cool and crushed them as find as you are will to crush them. Work that into your soil when you prep for your next grow.


"BioCANNA nutrients are designed to work with our bioterraPro" line.. thats bullshit.

only thing i'm feeding the soil at this point is water

 

[angel4us]

A few months back I adjusted ph of water for coco grow for older lady I was helping out just trying to make things as good as I could for her first grow .. then never did again ...just being lazy BUT HELL YEAH.... I have grown in soil outdoors for forty two years snd never ever adjusted ph !!!!!

 

[Diskokobaja]

Basically what I said in soil ph adjusters fuck your plants up. If anyone had good luck with it there soil was already right and they probably could have done better if they put the bottles down.

Question is pistils burn , when my pistils go orange way waaay before they should be?
I had that problem often..

Last two watering s, I lower my ph to 7.6 or lover (my digital pen is broken, So i use liquid..) And I gave them alg a mic, and bat guano ..
On biobizz site says that 0.1ml of their stuff lower ph by 0.5..
So I'm calculating that I need to give 2ml of ph down to bring it -1 down (8.6 to 7.6)
and I will let the soil do the rest.. I read somewhere (if I understand it ) that plants in veg dont show def because of wrong ph , coz they can uptake nutes around 7 ph value, while in flower that window gets smaller 6 and then problems starts..
Right now only One girls is looking really shitty and other are loking better but not good.
yesterday I lower again ph with 2ml of ph down, and give 1/3 feeding.. I didint go to check them..

I will not fck you with this topic anymore..

I will do test for next grow
HAlf girls with adjusted wtaer ph, and half girls without adjsting ph.,.


@Nyaga Its really hard to find some stuff that you reccomend, in my domestic stores, when I dont know croatian name for it..
Something like this?

 

[Nyaga]

Question is pistils burn , when my pistils go orange way waaay before they should be?
I had that problem often..

Last two watering s, I lower my ph to 7.6 or lover (my digital pen is broken, So i use liquid..) And I gave them alg a mic, and bat guano ..
On biobizz site says that 0.1ml of their stuff lower ph by 0.5..
So I'm calculating that I need to give 2ml of ph down to bring it -1 down (8.6 to 7.6)
and I will let the soil do the rest.. I read somewhere (if I understand it ) that plants in veg dont show def because of wrong ph , coz they can uptake nutes around 7 ph value, while in flower that window gets smaller 6 and then problems starts..
Right now only One girls is looking really shitty and other are loking better but not good.
yesterday I lower again ph with 2ml of ph down, and give 1/3 feeding.. I didint go to check them..

I will not fck you with this topic anymore..

I will do test for next grow
HAlf girls with adjusted wtaer ph, and half girls without adjsting ph.,.


@Nyaga Its really hard to find some stuff that you reccomend, in my domestic stores, when I dont know croatian name for it..
View attachment 81048 Something like this?

Ok @Diskokobaja let me help you out if you getting biobizz products then let me clarify their functions.

I call this the zero-ph.ux-given-method (work in progress)

Bioheaven = Amino acids = simple sugars = bacterial foods
Top Max = Humic and Fulvic Acids = Very Complex carbon chains secreted by fungi = Also fungal foods = Also neutralizes chlorine in municipal water. So a few drops of this in your water will feed fungi and neutralize the chlorine you just have to put in a few drops in the water till you see a color change in the water then its done its job.
RootJuice = Humic acids + seaweed

Bacteria release glues which increase your ph of your soil naturally
Fungi secrete acids that naturally lowers the ph of your soil naturally (but it will never really go below 5-5.5ph)

I would suggest, just get 1 bioheaven + 1 Top max + some mycorrhizae inoculant. Throw away your ph Pen. Little to no effort. Feed as needed, oxyginate your water for about 2-4 hours with an air pump similar to that for a fish tank with a air diffuser.

Every single molecular zone around a plant's root zone have multiple different ph levels ranging between 5-9ph, regardless of how you ph your water. Because the plant releases exudates which in turn attract a certain species of microorganism and the microbes will get the nutrient for the plant in exchange for exudates.

Therefore in conclusion this shit is super interesting, I've only given my soil water. 65% sand/silt/clay from frikken anywhere nature looks healthy away from the road and factories. (you don't need that much less is fine but then I'd increase the organic matter (compost assessed under a microscope) around 10% vermicompost(i have a worm bin, always try to get local as much as possible, 10% of my own compost I made from grass clipping, eggshells from restaurant/BnB, brown cardboard boxes from supermarkets and some waste greens that didn't sell.

These babies below have only been getting water.. literally.. just water with no ph adjustments, no feeding schedule, I don't even water them manually I use Blumat Classic non electrical watering system with a 5L (1 Gal) water bottle I just come check if my timer is fine and if it didn't fuckout and if the water level is fine in the bottle. Now and then I check the soil moister with my finger and feel if its wet or dry. If it was a hot day I give each pot 250ml of water. There are mostly 2 plants in1 pot except the bottom 2. Most of the time a failed grow is due to over complicating the process, trying to control too many things.

If you want to level up, then RO water + oxygenate it for a few hours 2-4.

You may have noticed I do not have a dehumidifier, I'm in a dry region so humidity is always between 30%-50% in the tent due to "dryer" air being sucked in.

In this grow there is some purple punch S1, cookies n chem, all kinds of goodies.

 

[Nyaga]

So this tent is mostly @Gu~~~ and @Heisenbeans Gear and Our local breeders gear, local is lekker . I tortured the bottom left one the most and then some during veg to see how they handle things, not too viscous.

 

[Diskokobaja]

One girls has gone totally sideways and looks like shit, other two doesn't look so bad.
Other three are 2 weeks behind, they just started to flower and they look ok.. Bit I can see some rust spots on them but maybe one or two..
I'm using almost whole line of bioobizz products except fish max, and activ vera..
Last few watering and feedings I only brought ph to 7.6 hoping that I dont add to much ph - (2ml on 10l water)
but plants still look awful..


I ordered some mycrorhizza.,waiting to arrive..
But Isnt mychrorh applicable just to mixing with soil or with transplanting to get in touch with roots?
And let god help me.
I'm in apartments so making my own soil inst option for me..
And again pistil going brown too soon.like wtf?