I used a heating pad set to low when I started, too. It should hold you over until you get one you can set to a temp, but just keep an eye on the temp, because it can get things a little too warm if the room temp isn’t on the cool side.6 seeds and 6 seeds germinated. Haven’t fucked-up anything - yet.
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That’s a regular heating pad that you might use for your back. I have the right one ordered. It should be here today. This one shuts itself off every hour, or something like that.
Girls are looking great badddoin.The girls turned a week old today.
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A little crumpling of the first leaves. I’m not sure what that’s about, probably got too close to the light on the humidity dome.
I diluted some nutrients down to about 100ppm and gave them each a little shot yesterday. Probably ramp it up slowly over the next two weeks.
Those seedlings have lots of room in the cups they’re in before needing a transplant.Week 2 update. The first leaves look terrible, but the new growth looks OK. I gave them a little more light, and I think I’ll transplant them to one gallon pots tomorrow.
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I’ve also added 6 clones from my last grow. 2 each GG4, Blue Dream, and MK ultra, all from ILGM.
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It’s my first attempt at cloning so we’ll see what happens. I’m using rock wool, cloned, and plain RO water. I’m keeping it close to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and 99% RH. Spraying 2 or 3times a day.
RUTROW! When I first read that I thought,”Of course I’m PHing my food.” BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE. The truth is that I had some nutrients mixed that had been used for veg on my other plants. The PH was around 5.8 and the PPM was about 550. But I was diluting that down with UNphed water. And that water, as it turns out is 8.0.Are you pH’ing your feed/water for the seedlings?
Your media that you’re growing in will dictate the pH range.RUTROW! When I first read that I thought,”Of course I’m PHing my food.” BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE. The truth is that I had some nutrients mixed that had been used for veg on my other plants. The PH was around 5.8 and the PPM was about 550. But I was diluting that down with UNphed water. And that water, as it turns out is 8.0.
That’s also the water that I’m spraying the clones with. My next feeding, which is about due now, I was going to mix the bites 1:1, bringing the ppm to around 275. So what is the solution now? Bring the water’s PH to down around six, and the same for the nutes?
I haven’t smoked any weed since Reagan’s first term, but the 70s were not kind to me.
Same; I hate seeing ppm scales for nutrients because there are so many, all based on EC, so I just use that.Your media that you’re growing in will dictate the pH range.
I don’t do ppm, but I think for seedlings you should be in the 300 area? Don’t take my advice on that.
You always want to mix all your nutes together then do. Final pHing.
I have never spayed my plants with anything, with the exception of clones that don’t want to root.
Please see my very specific and relevant gripe about "ppm" in terms of nutrient strength above.Ppm is literally the best tool we have when dialing in plants. Take your starting ppm and add to get a specific number. Pop 12 seeds and give each plant a different ppm each and see where they all stand. Your healthiest plant just told you what the guidelines are for your environment. Every light , every room, humidity. Temp plays a role in how your plants need to be cared for. The majority of issues I see in growers is over thinking shit and stay the fuk off reddit.
Your gripe totally make sense ttystikk but what I think H is driving at is to read your plants with whatever scale you fancy then you have them pegged on what they like just roll with that as a baseline for that particular cultivar. I have to get better at reading my plants I think because all the good/master growers seem to do it and base everything they do pretty much off it.Please see my very specific and relevant gripe about "ppm" in terms of nutrient strength above.
Many nutrient companies use ppm = EC x 500. Others, like Botanicare and Chem-Gro, use EC x 700. Another commonly used scale is EC x 840. This leads to confusion and imprecision.
The reason different scales exist is because different nutrients have different EC values vs their actual strength when dissolved. The problem with that is that once we're talking about a mix of nutrients, that distinction goes out the window because we're now measuring the average EC of the stew we've made.
Therefore, I've long advocated for people to use EC because it's the direct measurement with little chance of misinterpretation.
I'm not questioning his technique in any way. He's given me great advice just since I've been here.Your gripe totally make sense ttystikk but what I think H is driving at is to read your plants with whatever scale you fancy then you have them pegged on what they like just roll with that as a baseline for that particular cultivar. I have to get better at reading my plants I think because all the good/master growers seem to do it and base everything they do pretty much off it.
PPM is just mathematically calculated EC. If the person uses the same scale and uses it to know what to feed than it's not really an issue.Same; I hate seeing ppm scales for nutrients because there are so many, all based on EC, so I just use that.
For instance, at EC x 500, "300ppm" is 0.6 EC. At EC x 700, a very common alternate scale, "300ppm" is 0.43 EC. At EC x 840, yet another common scale, "300ppm" is only 0.375 EC.
For seedlings and freshly rooted cuttings, I recommend EC 1.0