QB132 V2 Quantum Boards × 1 V2 3000K

ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
My phone is glitching and making it hard to look at the pics, but if your POT is just used for an aftermarket additive resistance method of dimming on a "b" style driver, then you'll be fine. Most use @ least a 110kΩ POT for the dimmers so you get the full range. If theres no current flowing through the dimmer leads the driver will be at max output, so using a 110kΩ POT just ensures you can achieve the max 100kΩ needed for full blast.
Screenshot_2019-05-08-18-39-52~2.png

If you want to determine resistance, you can switch to the resistance portion of the multimeter and test Ω without any power being run through the dimmer. Just connect the "+" multimeter probe to one dimmer terminal and the "-" probe to the other dimmer terminal (no power hooked up to dimmer). Select 200kΩ on your multimeter and you should get a reading.

EDIT:
Voltage is measured in parallel. Current is measured in series. Volts × Amps = Watts.

So if you were trying to obtain wattage you'd have to measure voltage in parallel while its on, then power down, disconnect the cct or make a break in the loop, insert multimeter in series with the loop, then turn the multimeter dial to the "current" portion, then power back up and measure current. Then multiply the voltage by the amperage and you'll have wattage. :)
 
Last edited:
Erick31876

Erick31876

Solo cup champion 2019
ChiefRunningPhist said:
My phone is glitching and making it hard to look at the pics, but if your POT is just used for an aftermarket additive resistance method of dimming on a "b" style driver, then you'll be fine. Most use @ least a 110kΩ POT for the dimmers so you get the full range. If theres no current flowing through the dimmer leads the driver will be at max output, so using a 110kΩ POT just ensures you can achieve the max 100kΩ needed for full blast.
View attachment 5852

If you want to determine resistance, you can switch to the resistance portion of the multimeter and test Ω without any power being run through the dimmer. Just connect the "+" multimeter probe to one dimmer terminal and the "-" probe to the other dimmer terminal (no power hooked up to dimmer). Select 200kΩ on your multimeter and you should get a reading.

EDIT:
Voltage is measured in parallel. Current is measured in series. Volts × Amps = Watts.

So if you were trying to obtain wattage you'd have to measure voltage in parallel while its on, then power down, disconnect the cct or make a break in the loop, insert multimeter in series with the loop, then turn the multimeter dial to the "current" portion, then power back up and measure current. Then multiply the voltage by the amperage and you'll have wattage. :)
Click to expand...
Good info here
 
TerpyTyrone

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
ChiefRunningPhist said:
My phone is glitching and making it hard to look at the pics, but if your POT is just used for an aftermarket additive resistance method of dimming on a "b" style driver, then you'll be fine. Most use @ least a 110kΩ POT for the dimmers so you get the full range. If theres no current flowing through the dimmer leads the driver will be at max output, so using a 110kΩ POT just ensures you can achieve the max 100kΩ needed for full blast.
View attachment 5852

If you want to determine resistance, you can switch to the resistance portion of the multimeter and test Ω without any power being run through the dimmer. Just connect the "+" multimeter probe to one dimmer terminal and the "-" probe to the other dimmer terminal (no power hooked up to dimmer). Select 200k on your multimeter and you should get a reading.
Click to expand...
Your the man!
I love the graphics in ur threads. Very informative. What do u think of my spectrum.
4 qb 132 3000k, 4 qb132 4000k.
I will interchange them so each light will have 2 of each on it to give each plant in the 4x4 equal spectrum.
I really wanted the 3500k but hlg didnt restock em,in time,for me, so I pulled the trigger and got,the 4k.
Just in time too. The twmps in the NE are rising and I had to get the hps outta there.

When I make another move in the tent, I may just take the drivers right out of the tent. The 20/2 thermostat wire I got should be able to go the 8-10' span without a voltage drop, no?

I didnt have time in your thread about spectrums to comment, but in that paper the guy mentions that by adding red it doesn't speed up the flowering rate/time but it does add to the way the cannabis metabolized the nutrients?
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
Also, be safe when measuring the current.

Set your space up first. Power disconnected. Then, after power is disconnected, hook up your multimeter to the cct so it doesn't move around even if bumped lightly, its best if you can plug the 2 ends of the open cct directly into the multimeter, or use alligator clamps. Then after you have your multimeter in series rotate your multimeter dial to the 10A position (make sure the multimeter probe is in the 10A hole, or the end of the cct goes in the 10A hole), and then finally power your cct, or plug the driver in.


Here's a quick example of measuring current.

3v battery pack "+" goes through multimeter, then through 1kΩ POT, then through red LED, and then back to battery pack "-." You can see here where I've broken the cct or opened the loop, and the 2 leads lay dangling to the left of multimeter. They have duct tape on them so when I insert them into the multimeter holes they make a solid connection and stay in place. With low power its not such a big deal but if this were a 600h(?) then ya it matters. Just safer.
USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-2108338708.jpeg_1556864517247.jpeg

Close up of the path of the current, from "+" of battery through POT, through LED, to "-"
USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image--717480081.jpeg_1556861185781.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1852349973.jpeg_1556861011369.jpeg

I only measured the current of a small battery pack, so my max current selection on the multimeter was 200mA, if I were measuring over 200mA+ then I'd have to switch the hole where the red positive wire is in this pic below to the 10A hole on the far right instead of in the middle, and then Id rotate the dial to the 10A position.
USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1421709145.jpeg_1556860739801.jpeg
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
TerpyTyrone said:
Your the man!
I love the graphics in ur threads. Very informative. What do u think of my spectrum.
4 qb 132 3000k, 4 qb132 4000k.
I will interchange them so each light will have 2 of each on it to give each plant in the 4x4 equal spectrum.
I really wanted the 3500k but hlg didnt restock em,in time,for me, so I pulled the trigger and got,the 4k.
Just in time too. The twmps in the NE are rising and I had to get the hps outta there.

When I make another move in the tent, I may just take the drivers right out of the tent. The 20/2 thermostat wire I got should be able to go the 8-10' span without a voltage drop, no?

I didnt have time in your thread about spectrums to comment, but in that paper the guy mentions that by adding red it doesn't speed up the flowering rate/time but it does add to the way the cannabis metabolized the nutrients?
Click to expand...
I like the blend. If you can extend the SPD width a bit by adding farther red or farther blue I think you'd notice even better results. But what do i know lol I have yet to add any far red! I need to get on it!
 
TerpyTyrone

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
15574037884625657352722390713715.jpg
Just propagating, jamming to some shit,
@Jesselikes2Grow
I dono what happened bro, it sounds like an inside job.
Consider it an honor to get your balls busted.

On another note. We have all been through some shit. People have there own way of dealing with shit. My personal favorite is good music, with an underlying theme or a strong rythme scheme.
Of course when I was younger U love loved Eminem. I still recognize the way he mixes his beats and schemes.
Citizen cope is my 33 yr old selfs Eminem. An older white gangster. Some somes really help me. I lost a baby @ 4 months in the womb. I took my wife to get an abortion @ 18 weeks. She told me after that it was a boy.
I went into exile. I was there for my wife but I had another side. My drug addict self. I had some shit to get off my chest. Not some wah is me shit but I dont have friends like that ya dig. Y'all are my friends. Thanks for listening.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
TerpyTyrone said:
With the drivers on top of the lights , in the tent, the temp,was up,to,81 today. On a relatively mild spring day. By buying these LED boards I was hoping to be able to run damn near ambient temp outside the tent.
Click to expand...
You can get the lights to run cooler by increasing the area over which the power is applied (ie, same wattage, but more chips or more boards, = cooler temps). Although you can't make the driver run cooler, so if you keep the drivers outside the tent you'll manage inside ambient easier.
 
TerpyTyrone

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Erick31876 said:
It would probably be 91 with a hps. What is the pic of the ant that is almost finished , it looks pretty tasty
Click to expand...
SEEDSMAN amnesia auto.
By far the stinkiest stickiest auto I have ever ran!!
Don't. Overlook seedsman genetics.
If you read there website it explains that they are the third party and the actual breeders wish to remain anonymous.
Me being the imaginative guy I am , I can just imagine some old hippie, sitting in his garage supplementing his social security by creating beautiful genetics. Of xourse in his garage with a doob in the mouth jamming some hall and oates!
 
TerpyTyrone

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
ChiefRunningPhist said:
Also, be safe when measuring the current.

Set your space up first. Power disconnected. Then, after power is disconnected, hook up your multimeter to the cct so it doesn't move around even if bumped lightly, its best if you can plug the 2 ends of the open cct directly into the multimeter, or use alligator clamps. Then after you have your multimeter in series rotate your multimeter dial to the 10A position (make sure the multimeter probe is in the 10A hole, or the end of the cct goes in the 10A hole), and then finally power your cct, or plug the driver in.


Here's a quick example of measuring current.

3v battery pack "+" goes through multimeter, then through 1kΩ POT, then through red LED, and then back to battery pack "-." You can see here where I've broken the cct or opened the loop, and the 2 leads lay dangling to the left of multimeter. They have duct tape on them so when I insert them into the multimeter holes they make a solid connection and stay in place. With low power its not such a big deal but if this were a 600h(?) then ya it matters. Just safer.
View attachment 5864

Close up of the path of the current, from "+" of battery through POT, through LED, to "-"
View attachment 5865

View attachment 5866

I only measured the current of a small battery pack, so my max current selection on the multimeter was 200mA, if I were measuring over 200mA+ then I'd have to switch the hole where the red positive wire is in this pic below to the 10A hole on the far right instead of in the middle, and then Id rotate the dial to the 10A position.
View attachment 5867
Click to expand...
How do u make these cool diagrams!! U missed your calling brother!
My grow is at a friends nearby so sometimes I get a chance to hangout and do experiments or tests on the environment. But its hard because after I make the changes I leave.
I took both driverrs out of the tent and turned up the intake 4" hydrofarm with makeup ambient air.
The 4 " hydrofarm with the carbon filter is on 24 7 becaise of smell. I have it vented out thw only exit from the basement. Naturally the dryer vent.
U can see wherre AC would be a problem in a basement. So I am trying to run this as long as possible without adding an AC.
Temps max reached 84.
I know if i keep it up its gonna affect yoeld and maybe hermie the whole lot of em.
Been there, met Herm. I didnt like him hahaha
 
TerpyTyrone

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
I just hit up,the hydro shop and showed dude a picture of my light. He said it would sit in his store and gatger dust because its not pretty enough. Fucker. I guess he's right. Ive built mine so far with purpose and parts I had on hand.
Nothing pretty and most of all done fast.
I use a reciprocating sawzall for instance and no rivets and no reflectors or even heat shrinks. Bare bones. But shiiittt. Hes right. Its ugly ha
 
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