Preparing to make the upgrade

[spyralout]

I'm planning for a DIY upgrade to real LED - COB, QB or both (or LED strip?) My last run was 3x600 watt HPS in one tent and 2x600 (240 true watt) viparspectra with 2x600 PAR (300 true watt) viparspectra in another, both 5x10 each. Although I got some good buds, I know it wasn't enough light and I've learned quite a bit about true watts and whatnot since then.
What would be a decent DIY LED build for this size tent? Should it be mixed spectrums (3000, 3500k) or will one spectrum be good for all phases of growth?
Thank you for the help and advice.

 

[spyralout]

How do you know it wasn't enough light?
1,800 watts of HID in a 5 x 10 seems like plenty.

But I'd run 2 HPS & 1 MH...

1800 in 50 sq ft is 36w per sq ft. I've heard optimal is 50w per sq ft, so that would be 2500 watts. Maybe this is different with more efficient LED like COB or QB. I know for sure that the viparspectra tent wasn't enough because of the low true wattage. Interestingly, the buds came out much more crystally than HPS. They just weren't as dense although the HPS buds could've been denser I think.

 

[spyralout]

Thanks Jesse for the insight. Cool pic. Plants look healthy AF!
Goals -

Electrical concerns - yes, to a point. Rumor has it kw/h will go up by almost 20% in my state soon. But I probably won't factor this too heavily in my decisions

Heat or Cold - for one of the rooms with the two tents, yes it can get very hot in the summer time and is not insulated very well. I don't plan to grow during the summers in there, even with AC. Winter time, the lights give enough heat, but if I go all LED I may need to heat it up a bit. For another room with a smaller tent, it's got central AC/heat so should be no issue.

Flower, veg or dual purpose? - dual purpose so I don't need to switch out lights if using the same tent

Budget for parts? - for a 5x5, $400-500, a 5x10, double that or maybe a bit more for a different design

I am willing to do weekends and a couple hours after work every day to complete it

 

[spyralout]

My leds running both rooms do run on the cool side. I had to add heat for the winter months.
3500k for a dual purpose room is a really good all around spectrum. Or a mix of 3000 and 4000 does well together also.
I run a mix of 5000k /3000k for veg, and 3000/3500 in flower. Basically double the watts in flower than in veg.
Cobs are cheap and easy. Qb's even easier, but cost a bit more. Strips take alot more time, and are more expensive.

What do you think I should aim for watts wise with cob or qb for 5x5 and 5x10 (just double 5x5 I'm guessing)

 

[spyralout]

Lol when I'm stoned on strains like haze (right now haha) I get all creative and motivated. Thanks for your input, looking forward to hearing more.

 

[spyralout]

Just thinking of size of the lights and the room. Both 5x5 being used together or separate?
If it was one 5x10 I'd say three 3'×4' arrays with 500 to 600 watts each would be pretty damned bad ass and not to hard to setup, adjust, move around etc.
Separate 5x5s I'd say two 2'x4' arrays per 5x5 at 450 watts ish each would be a great one too.

I have two separate 5x10s and a separate 5x5 in a different room. That setup does sound badass. Would like some build details and parts list. Maybe get the 5x5 and one 5x10 set up first.

 

[spyralout]

Check out a few folks grows using strips and cobs, see which you'd rather go with. And I'll help you put a plan together based on that choice.

Got any good links to shoot my way? Need some inspiration. I liked this one, but the links for the parts don't exist any more.

500W ChilLED Kit + 4 Pucks at 320W (@scaregrow420)

ledbuilder.org

 

[spyralout]

Lemme get a few links for you.
Not that he's here anymore, but some nice light pics etc, threads by whytewidow. Even if he is a douche, guy did some nice lights.

Samsung Power

Post any Samsung Powered light here. 660+ watts F562bs strips 575+ watts H inFlux_L06 strips

chuckersparadise.com

Bridgelux Power

Post any Bridgelux powered lighting. 500+ watts of EB series Gen 2s

chuckersparadise.com

Also YouTube migro, and growmau, they both did alot of good tests of the qb's etc.
Ledgardener.com as well for comparisons.
For some parts pricing strips and qbs.

QB288 V1 Quantum Board

Ultra High Efficiency LED Boards for DIY. QB288 has 288pcs Samsung 561C for 5000K or Lumileds 2835HE for 3000K

horticulturelightinggroup.com

There's others on that site too.

SL-B8T2N70LAWW Samsung Semiconductor, Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. SL-B8T2N70LAWW – LED Lighting COBs, Engines, Modules LED Module H inFlux White, Neutral Linear Light Strip from Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

Thank you I will definitely check these out. Sometimes I wish I could make payments or put some of this shit on layaway hahah

 

[Turpman]

I do have some experience with strips. All bridgy EB. I just put in fifty some strips. To grow tissue culture potatos 8 covering a 30" width 8' rows. They don't need a lot of light. But heat is an issue growing in 4 levels. Looks like it's working well so far, very low heat and nice light. They need a little stretch, single stock some leave. They recut and reculture to multiply before going into the greenhouses in the spring.

Bidgy strips are 175 Lm/watt which is higher than most cobs if not all. I know Lm/watt is not the be all end all, colour spectrum is pretty important, have no idea which is better in that compartment.
The bridgy don't require cooling if run at .7a. Cob cooling can cost more than one strip in itself. Strips are around 17-18$ cobs 20 up, cooling 15up. I'm in Canada mind you shipping adds up on everything.
One good thing cobs are is lots of lumens in a small area. That's one thing I am trying figuring out on Hethens build. Almost too small off an area for the lumens he wants for strips. Strips are going to be side by side and above .7A. This is where cobs would shine. Catch the pun LOL. But then extra cost of heat sinks and cobs are going to overrun the budget.

A strip build you could buy the driver you need. And start with a few strips. And add as you have the dollars as log as you buy for parallel. Didgykey has free shipping. Would do that with cobs too.
Feel free to ask questions, post progress.

 

[spyralout]

Home depot and lowes both sell grow setups online and offer 6 month no interest financing. Lol.
Delivered to your door. Lol.
Or fill up a CC and pay it off.

HD and Lowes look really expensive and a lot of blurple stuff it seems.
CC - every time I pay some off, I put it back in, what a vicious cycle.

 

[spyralout]

I do have some experience with strips. All bridgy EB. I just put in fifty some strips. To grow tissue culture potatos 8 covering a 30" width 8' rows. They don't need a lot of light. But heat is an issue growing in 4 levels. Looks like it's working well so far, very low heat and nice light. They need a little stretch, single stock some leave. They recut and reculture to multiply before going into the greenhouses in the spring.

Bidgy strips are 175 Lm/watt which is higher than most cobs if not all. I know Lm/watt is not the be all end all, colour spectrum is pretty important, have no idea which is better in that compartment.
The bridgy don't require cooling if run at .7a. Cob cooling can cost more than one strip in itself. Strips are around 17-18$ cobs 20 up, cooling 15up. I'm in Canada mind you shipping adds up on everything.
One good thing cobs are is lots of lumens in a small area. That's one thing I am trying figuring out on Hethens build. Almost too small off an area for the lumens he wants for strips. Strips are going to be side by side and above .7A. This is where cobs would shine. Catch the pun LOL. But then extra cost of heat sinks and cobs are going to overrun the budget.

A strip build you could buy the driver you need. And start with a few strips. And add as you have the dollars as log as you buy for parallel. Didgykey has free shipping. Would do that with cobs too.
Feel free to ask questions, post progress.

Thanks for your reply and insight. I will look into this as well. Both options seem intriguing so far. I do like jesse's analogy of muscle car and ferrari, seems fitting.

 

[Turpman]

Thanks for the help Jessy. Much better prices. I may have to order extra LOL.
Should be able to source frame material hear.

 

[Armdog]

Lemme get a few links for you.
Not that he's here anymore, but some nice light pics etc, threads by whytewidow. Even if he is a douche, guy did some nice lights.

Samsung Power

Post any Samsung Powered light here. 660+ watts F562bs strips 575+ watts H inFlux_L06 strips

chuckersparadise.com

Bridgelux Power

Post any Bridgelux powered lighting. 500+ watts of EB series Gen 2s

chuckersparadise.com

Also YouTube migro, and growmau, they both did alot of good tests of the qb's etc.
Ledgardener.com as well for comparisons.
For some parts pricing strips and qbs.

QB288 V1 Quantum Board

Ultra High Efficiency LED Boards for DIY. QB288 has 288pcs Samsung 561C for 5000K or Lumileds 2835HE for 3000K

horticulturelightinggroup.com

There's others on that site too.

SL-B8T2N70LAWW Samsung Semiconductor, Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. SL-B8T2N70LAWW – LED Lighting COBs, Engines, Modules LED Module H inFlux White, Neutral Linear Light Strip from Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

I have the QB 288 V2 in 3000k for both veg and bloom and they work awesome . They produce very big and dense buds.

 

[Turpman]

Light footprint is 24x30 not positive but I don't think one can get enough wats with the QB.

 

[spyralout]

I have the QB 288 V2 in 3000k for both veg and bloom and they work awesome . They produce very big and dense buds.

That's what I'm talking about. I'm getting ok density but not the nice tight nugz. I dont wanna use paclo or some shit to get there either

 

[spyralout]

Light footprint is 24x30 not positive but I don't think one can get enough wats with the QB.

I need to learn the difference between running them light and pushing them. I'm guessing it's like spending more money on a higher rated model vs overclocking a decent cut of silicon. Brings me back to the Athlon xp days (that was both fun and frustrating)

 

[Turpman]

They run more efficient light. Pretty sure it's the heat that lowers the efficiency and lifespan. So if you can keep them cool you can run higher wattage without the penalty. Its all a cost trade off. More cooling vs more diodes.

 

[Armdog]

I need to learn the difference between running them light and pushing them. I'm guessing it's like spending more money on a higher rated model vs overclocking a decent cut of silicon. Brings me back to the Athlon xp days (that was both fun and frustrating)

They put out the par with little to no heat. I have 2 qb 288 v2 setups in 4x4 which is definitely over kill. One QB 288 will cover a 4x4 in veg and 3x3 in flower. Each setup pulls 288 watts from the wall . I add C02 to my setup. Just 2 hugs with sugar water and yeast .

 

[Armdog]

They put out the par with little to no heat. I have 2 qb 288 v2 setups in 4x4 which is definitely over kill. One QB 288 will cover a 4x4 in veg and 3x3 in flower. Each setup pulls 288 watts from the wall . I add C02 to my setup. Just 2 hugs with sugar water and yeast .

Your par will be in the 800 to 900 range at 14"

 

[Armdog]

Your par will be in the 800 to 900 range at 14"

With 2 mine is at around 1200 , that's why I add C02